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From Emporda wine growing region of Spain, with this vineyard in the wake of the Pyrenees mountains. It’s an unusual place, lesser-known, relatively unsung.
Here, a Garden Of Eden farm with mixed agriculture, self sufficient in food production, makes a bit of wine from the 2.5 hectares of unkempt vines. No chemicals in farm or winemaking (including sulphur). A n eccentric blend of macabeu, xarel-lo, garnatxa negra, garnatxa blanca, parellada – all of which is aged for a very, very long times on lees. Grapes planted in 1979, with the intention of mostly picking sparkling wine.
From a hot/dry site. The wine maker intentionally wants riper fruit, which seems counter intuitive to most making natural wine – look at that ABV!
Petillant natural style here, but something else, almost into a category of its own. Never seen anything like it, but now I want more. A blend of garnatxa, syrah, cabernet, samso (cinsault) with old school winemaking from an old school wine region, Emporda. This is one of those extraordinary producers who seems to live life at a slower pace, making wine as part of an agrarian existence rather than truly a commercial entity. Established in the late 1970s, the vines grow practically wild, see no chemicals in farming, with vineyard plots set amongst flowers and forest in the lee of the Pyrenees mountains. A garden more than vineyard over 2.5 hectares, is the idea.
Nothing added in winemaking either. You don’t often think Clos Mogador and white wine. This is mostly made up of the grape variety garnacha blanca with macabeau and escanyavelles, and allegedly (at least in past) the rest a melange of viognier, marsanne, roussanne and pedro ximenez. Priorat white aiming for an elevated standing.
The wine is raised in stainless, old barrels and ceramic egg, resting on lees for a period of nine months or so. It’s one of those wines that made me double take, at first feeling a touch broad, but with air and time in glass, revealed a stunning personality of bronzed coloured, richness and open weave, powerful, slightly sherrified feel with a good weave of phenolic structrue.
Natural fermentation and some skin fermentation also is applied in winemaking. Fascinating, wonderful wine.
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